Do you have a dream trip?
Some prefer London or Paris. Others pine for Alaska, Australia, or the plains of the Serengeti. For me it was Yosemite’s High Sierra Loop.
To celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Yosemite Grant Act, I want to share my favorite trip to Yosemite National Park. In July 2012, I hiked 54 miles in seven days (one was a rest day) through some of the best of Yosemite’s high country.
Yosemite’s High Country
Looking out across the high country
Words are inadequate to describe Yosemite’s high country. Massive granite peaks tower above ancient pine forests and tranquil lakes. Boulder-strewn rivers cut through the landscape, spilling across smooth granite slabs as they churn and plunge toward the valleys below. Occasionally a meadow appears, to astonish hikers with its carpet of grasses and wildflowers.
The area varies in elevation from about 7,000’ to peaks well over 12,000’. Its mammoth granite formations were the undersea roots of enormous volcanoes 200 million years ago. It’s amazing to think these mountains started as molten rock deep beneath the ocean floor and were uplifted thousands of feet above sea level as California rose from the ocean.
The High Sierra Loop
High Sierra Loop
Yosemite National Park has 5 High Sierra Camps arranged in a 49-mile loop. Each camp is a day’s hike from at least two other camps. So starting from Tuolumne Meadows, you can complete the circuit in 6 days’ hiking. Camps vary in elevation from 7,800’ to 10,300’. As you might expect, altitude and elevation gain factor into planning your trip. Here is a detailed trail map, with hiking distances, in PDF format.
The camps offer two types of accommodations. Backpackers stay at a traditional backpacker’s campsite. But the camp also offers tent-cabins to “loop hikers” who want the backcountry experience without the need to carry sleeping bag or tent. The tent-cabins are rigid frames covered by canvas. Four bunk-beds provide sleeping for eight. Although the staff tries to keep groups in the same cabin, you should expect to find yourself sharing your quarters with other hikers of your gender. Candles provide light and a small wood stove keeps things cozy overnight. The cabins have neither electricity nor running water. Hikers should bring a sleeping bag liner because the mattress sheets and wool blanket are not washed the entire season.
Merced River
The camps also provide meals to those who want them. Breakfast and dinner are served family style in each camp’s dining cabin. Hikers sit at long communal tables and share meals while swapping stories of the day. These meals need to be booked in advance when you reserve a spot at the camp. Bag lunches are on offer as well. The staff provides a sandwich, fruit, and snack to fuel your journey to the next camp. Potable water is available at all the camps to refill water bottles.
Bathrooms are usually composting toilets. As I recall, two of the camps had showers and one even had a small sink and washer-board so hikers could wash their clothes.
Besides hiking from camp to camp, the park provides saddle trips for those who prefer to ride. Mules depart from Tulumne Meadows and carry riders on 4 and 6-day trips. I hiked 7 days and cannot recall encountering a saddle trip on the trail. The camps themselves are supplied by the mule trains that bring food and supplies.
Why I Wanted to do this Trip
Tenaya Lake
California is a magnificent place to backpack. There are vast areas where you can hike all day without seeing another human being. You contemplate the sunset over dinner and gaze at the stars as you drift off to sleep.
I have grown to cherish this wilderness experience. But like so many of us, I find the demands of daily life prevent me from answering the call of the mountains. But when I stopped to consider the situation, I made an unexpected discovery. It was not the demands of my life that kept me inside, it was the demands on my friends’ lives!
Half Dome in the distance
You see, I do not have solo backpacking experience. I always backpacked with at least one trusted buddy. But as my friends and I rose through the corporate ranks, coordinating vacation time became as difficult as staging a World Cup in Qatar. So my backpack time slowly declined.
The obvious solution was to backpack solo. I had the knowledge, I had the equipment, and I had the motivation. However, I did not have the confidence. What if I get lost? What if I fall? The altitude? River crossings? Hypothermia? Don’t even get me started on the bears…
As funny as it sounds when read from the page, these are very real psychological impediments for anyone considering a solo trip in the wilderness. My solution was the High Sierra Loop. I could hike and explore on my own, but there were relatively well marked trails. A destination with people awaited the end of each day. I could travel light, without needing to carry a tent, sleeping bag, stove, or a week’s worth of meals. Like my solo overnight in a debris hut, this was a chance to grow incrementally, in a risk-controlled environment.
Among native peoples, measuring oneself in nature has always been a rite of passage into adulthood. Most of us never have that experience. We spend our lives well within our comfort zones repeating the same familiar routines. I intended the High Sierra Loop as an incremental step toward becoming more self-reliant in the backcountry. It was the chance to grow toward having the confidence to backpack solo.
As you read the following sections, you will discover that the trip I wanted and the trip I got turned out to be completely different. But I wouldn’t change a thing!
Booking the Trip
Climbing to Vogelsang
You can book the high sierra trip online using this link. The camps do not open until June/July because of their altitude. Enough snow must melt to make the trails passable. Additionally, the camps themselves are very small. If they served large numbers of people it would defeat their purpose. As a result, availability is limited.
Applications for specific dates are available online. But a lottery determines whether you will get a reservation. Unlucky at cards and unlucky in love, I did not think I would fare very well in the lottery. Besides, I could not plan my vacation that far in advance. So I played to my strengths. Living in Northern California, I would book my trip after the lottery ended. After February, when the lottery is completed, any remaining spaces at the High Sierra Camps are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. These spaces are updated online. So, I could wait a month or two before the trip and look for open reservations that result from cancellations. Since I was booking solo, I would also have an advantage. I could slip into open spaces that couples could not.
I ended up booking my trip two weeks before departure. But it wasn’t exactly what I had planned…
The Best Laid Plans…
Sunrise Meadow
In order to make the loop, you must “connect the dots.” You need to book consecutive nights at High Sierra Camps within a day’s walk from each other. Try as I might, I could not make it work. I would get half-way around the loop to discover that the next camp was completely filled.
What I did next turned out to be a brilliant stroke of luck. I booked a spot on a 7-day ranger guided hike. It was the only way I could secure accommodations for the entire loop. I would not be on my own and I would not be tent-camping. So my step toward solo backpacking would have to wait. But I would be able to journey through Yosemite’s high country without fear of getting lost, or becoming a polypro-wrapped hors d’oeuvre for a passing black bear.
As it turns out, this ranger guided hike was to become one of the most fun trips of my life!
Away We Go
Hiking with a small group from all over the USA was a blast!
Below are the links that recount our trip. Led by our ranger guide, our merry band of hikers views stunning scenery, learns natural history, and even creates art!
Day 0: The High Sierra Loop – Arrival Day
Day 1: The High Sierra Loop – Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin
Day 2: The High Sierra Loop – Glen Aulin to May Lake
Day 3: The High Sierra Loop – May Lake to Sunrise Camp
Day 4-5: The High Sierra Loop – Sunrise Camp to Merced Lake
Day 6-7: The High Sierra Loop – Merced Lake to Vogelsang
For fun facts and useful tips, join the free Bushcraft Newsletter.
Loved your article. Thanks!
what non-profit organizations do you lead outdoor programs for?
Carole, I lead hikes as a volunteer for the Sierra Club’s Inspiring Connections Outdoors (ICO). This organization was called Inner City Outings for many years. I get to take children hiking, backpacking, rafting, sea kayaking, cross-country skiing, etc… It’s the most enjoyable and worthwhile thing I do. Look for a branch near you to get involved.
I also lead outdoor programs for California State Parks and the U.S. Department of Fish and Wildlife.
Introducing people to nature is my passion and I recommend it highly to everyone!
That sounds fantastic! Thanks for letting me know!
Do you know the links to:
the full loop hike with meals and lodging
the full loop hike on mules, with meals and lodging
the full loop ranger guided hike, with meals and lodging
Also, if you are hiking can you stay multiple nights (custom fit your trip)?
Thanks. Nice Blog.
Greg
PS: I did this hike in 1964 with a backpack. A shortened version (Sunrise, Merced Lake and Volgelsang) two nights at each spot. A great trip.
Good questions, Greg. I provide a link in the article to all of this information. Click on the hyperlink portion of the sentence, “You can book the high sierra trip online using this link.” This will bring you to the main reservation page where there are links to all the information you seek.
You can design a custom trip for yourself by booking nights at each of the camps you want to visit. You can book multiple nights at the same camp if you wish. I envision doing a shorter trip in the future where I book several nights at one or two of my favorite camps.
Steve
Thanks for the great info. Which are your favourite camps and why?
Hi Chandra!
I love Glenn Aulin because of its waterfall and the opportunity to dunk in the swimming hole below it. I was entranced by the beauty of the canyon downriver.
I liked May Lake because of the reflection of Mt. Hoffmann in it. I loved climbing on the rocks above the camp and watching the sun set over Half Dome.
Sunrise camp has a peaceful valley to explore. I found it very relaxing to stroll through the enormous meadow below the camp.
Vogelsang has a very “Himalayan” feel to it and is at the highest elevation. You can feel the altitude.
Each camp has its own attractions and it’s very subjective which you will like best.
I hope this helps!
I’m hiking the High Sierra Loop counterclockwise the first of August, a combination of backpacker campsites and High Sierra tent lodges, one night at each of six stops. Are there particular day hikes to add along the trails or at the lodges/campsites that you recommend?
Thanks!
It sounds like you have a fantastic trip planned, Alice! There are diversions along the way to see small waterfalls or archeological sites. However, it is very difficult for me to describe them. I recommend you talk with the camp staff when you arrive and ask them. They will know! Remember, they live there most of the summer. The ranger station where you get your wilderness permit is also a good place to ask.
Have a wonderful trip!
Do you have a thought about which direction is best for the loop, clockwise (Glen Aulin to Vogelsang) or the other way around?
Perry, I feel the clockwise direction (Glen Aulin to Vogelsang) is better. This is because the hike from Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin is actually a *decrease* in elevation. Tuolumne Meadows is at 8,600 feet. Glen Aulin is at approximately 7,800 feet. Contrast this with Vogelsang, at 10,300 feet. So you have a much easier first day to acclimate to the altitude and get your legs underneath you.
It’s a wonderful journey in either direction. But I prefer clockwise because of the easier first day.
Great article Steve. I am completely new to backpacking but have been consuming as much information as possible to prepare, as I will also be going solo most likely. Appreciate the inspiration and sharing your experience so others can learn.
I’m glad you enjoyed the article David. You may want to try a group trip to get some experience before you backpack on your own. But I’m certain you will have a great time backpacking. It’s wonderful to immerse yourself in nature and wake up with wilderness all around you.
About 10 years ago I did the same week long hike with a ranger trip you did. I agree that it’s the best direction. I would hate to climb to Vogelsang first. The next year we just did Glen Aulin and May Lake. We spent 2 nights at May Lake and climbed Mt Hoffman. I was supposed to do a backpack trip next month to Cloud’s Rest and Half Dome, but we had to cancel. In researching the trip, I saw that none of the High Sierra camps will be opening this year because of snow (Tioga Pass isn’t even open yet). I like the picture you included of Half Dome, I was telling my friends that we were close to Cloud’s Rest when we were close to Sunrise–that same back view of Half Dome. Did your ranger take you to a place that they called “Goofy Point”? My camera was stolen before I was able to get prints of those pictures. It was an amazing vacation for me as well.
Liz, it sounds like you had an epic trip!
We did take a detour to a point where I took the photo of Half Dome. But I can’t recall if our Ranger gave its name.
You are right about the camps remaining closed for summer 2019. Tioga Road opened in the end of May in 2018 and the end of June 2017. This year, as of June 17, there is no prediction for when the road will open. When it does, I expect that there will be some spectacular hiking!!!
Thanks for the article. How would I go about booking a ranger guided hike like this one?
Gary, you can use the link included in the article, above. Click on the text “online using this link.”
Hello
Looks wonderful!
We have done quite a bit of hiking in the Alps (France, Switzerland and Austria) and this looks so amazing.
Where did you find the guided 7 day hike (that you eventually took)?
Thanks
Juliette
Juliette, the link to help you book the trip is in this article. Look for the sentence, “You can book the high sierra trip online using this link” and click on the blue link. This takes you to the Yosemite High Sierra Camps page. Click “Guided Trips” to see how to register for one of the park’s ranger-guided trips. I believe there is also a phone number to call to see if there are any last-minute vacancies. Good luck with your trip!
Hello,
Thanks for the article. I’m planning to do this loop in mid July but I’m not sure if the trails would still be covered in snow or not… My biggest concern is river crossing. Any advice for this year?
Regards,
BambooN, they will not open the loop unless they deem it passable. There are few river crossings and they should all be manageable. If you have questions, you can call the ranger station as the date approaches to get the latest trail conditions.
we’ve done several long distance hikes in Europe, including the Tour du Mont Blanc, and loved it, but we had our gear carried and only needed a daypack. Are the mule carriers an option for those on the ranger led hike so that your daypack can just include water and other essentials and if so, how much would that cost per day per hiker? Thanks.
Nancy, when you do the walk you stay at “bunkhouses” at each of the camps. So you do not need to carry a tent, sleeping bag, or food (you do need to carry snacks). You carry a sleeping bag liner because the sheets and blankets are not laundered regularly because of the camps’ remote locations.
So you can do the entire walk with a large daypack, or with a backpack that is only lightly loaded. There is no need for mule carriers because you should be able to fit everything you need in your daypack. You carry your water bottle, snacks, lunch (provided), clothing layers (you wear the same clothes multiple times), toiletries, and sleeping bag liner.
Sounds awesome. Thanks for sharing your trip. Can you break the trip up into 1/2 the distance? If so what do you recommend?
Jim, you can book the camps like hotels. So you can create your own trip by booking them so you hike a smaller loop or an out-and-back. I don’t have a recommendation because it depends on how much hiking you want to do, how many nights you wish to spend, and what your interests are (peaks, lakes, views, etc.). I suggest you look at the map of the camps and see if you can find a circuit or out-and-back that looks fun.